Klaipėda, Lithuania’s historical gateway to sea, sand and fun     

Klaipėda is Lithuania’s oldest city and its major port. It is rich in history and culture, from its Neo-Gothic architecture and fine examples of fachwerk, or timber-framed houses, to its famous jazz scene and lively summer festivals.

Historical Summary and Future Perspective

Klaipėda was founded in 1252 as a fort by the Teutonic Knights who called it Memelberg (subsequently shortened to Memel). In the 17th century, it became a part of Prussian territory and was settled by the Germans. In 1923, Memel was renamed Klaipeda as part of an independent Lithuania, only to be seized by Germany in 1939 and passed to the Soviet Union in 1945. After decades of Soviet leadership, it became part of the newly independent Lithuania in 1991. To this day there are no churches in the Old Town (these were destroyed during WWII).

Today, it is an important port (the northernmost ice free port on the east Baltic Sea) which is rapidly developing into a popular tourist destination. The municipality’s plan is to remove a lot of the industry from the city center, replacing one of the biggest shipyards built during the Soviet era with residential housing and an entertainment complex with hotels, restaurants, cafes, shops, and nightclubs. Already, several shiny new buildings are apparent in the port area with many more to come in what looks like a bright future for a very interesting city.

Getting There:

Highways and Byways. Klaipėda is well connected with Vilnius by a modern highway. If you have more time, we recommend a beautiful scenic drive (Route 141) along a country lane between Kaunas and Šilutė (just south of Klaipėda) which takes you through the heart of Lithuania along the Nemunas River past several castles and fort hills and rolling green countryside.

By Sea. Regular ferries link Klaipėda to Karlshamn in Sweden, Kiel and Sassnitz in Germany.

By Plane. A small international airport in the nearby seaside resort town of Palanga makes it possible to fl y to and from Amsterdam, Copenhagen, Frankfurt, Hanover, and Tallinn.

Sightseeing

What follows is an introduction to the city and by no means an exhaustive list of things to see and do in town. Take time to wander and explore for yourself the Old Town’s inviting cobblestone streets.

Theatre Square and the statue of Anike

This square named after the Neoclassical theatre found here is in the heart of Old Town. Its centerpiece is a monument originally erected in 1912 dedicated to renowned Lithuanian-born poet and Professor Simon Dach (1605-1659). It depicts Ann Tharau, or simply Anike, a character from one of his most important and beloved poems which later became a popular song and is still very popular in Germany, Austria and Switzerland today. Simon Dach’s inspiration came from the real Anike with whom he fell madly in love with the first time he saw her. The sculpture was taken down in 1939 when the Nazis came to Klaipėda, but was rebuilt again in 1989, a testament to enduring art and love.

There are several cafés and restaurants here where one can easily while away an hour or two on a warm summer’s day close to such romantic inspiration. On a more somber note, the Drama Theatre’s balcony is where Hitler made a speech announcing German sovereignty in the region in March 1939.

Fachwerk houses

Fachwerk refers to a building technique where a wooden frame for a house is erected and then its gaps are filled with some other material such as clay, stone or plaster. The Old Town has many good examples of this construction style, and it is not found anywhere else in Lithuania. Most Fachwerk houses were built in the 18th and 19th centuries.

Many of these old buildings currently are house galleries, museums, shops or cafés.

Neo-Gothic architecture: the old Post Office

This is one of the finest examples of neo-gothic architecture in Klaipėda. It was built in the 19th century, as were most of the neo-gothic structures in town (the city was swept by fires in the mid 19th century destroying a large part of the city and needed to be rebuilt). The Post Office is still functioning and has a carillon of 48 bells which plays every Sunday at noon for half an hour. Another good example of the Neo-Gothic in the city is Klaipėda University, but it is a bit of a hike from Old Town.

The Castle Museum

Pilies 4, Tel +370 464 10524, Open June – August: Wed – Sun 10.00 – 18:00; September – May: Tue – Sat 10.00 – 18:00. This museum is an excellent source of information about the history of Klaipėda and the life of its people, including an interactive virtual exposition where visitors can “walkthrough” history. There is also a good view of the Old Town from the premises.

The Meridianas

This ship built by the Finns in 1948 has become a symbol of Klaipėda. Unfortunately, its once magnificent sails are now banners for Lithuania’s most popular beer Švyturys – brewed in Klaipėda. Once used by Klaipėda Navigation School to train sailors, the ship is now home to a mediocre restaurant which is, ironically, a good place to sip this local brew.

Smiltynė: beaches and the Sea Museum

If you are looking for good beaches in Klaipėda, simply take the scenic and short ferry ride across the bay to the Curonian Spit and an area known as Smiltynė. Cross this narrow strip of land and you’ll find some very nice sand to sink your toes into. Also in the Smiltynė area, the modern Sea Museum which is inside of an old German fort is a good place to get acquainted with the local marine life or browse through an impressively large seashell collection.

The Dolphinarium puts on regular dolphin and sea lion shows – especially fun for the children. To beat the summer crowds, we recommend buying your ticket for the Dolphin Show at the ticket window ahead of time, exploring the Sea Museum and grounds (1 ½ to 2 hours), then coming back to view the show – the lines just before a performance can be very long. Lithuanian Sea Museum/ Dolphinarium: Tel. +370 464 90740, +370 464 90754. Open Tue – Sun: 10:30-18.30 (June 1st to August 31st; hours differ outside of season). Dolphin shows are held at 12:00, 14:00 and 16:00.

Dining and Entertainment

Kurpiai Jazz Club

Kurpių 1A, Tel. +370 464 10555, Open daily: 12:00 until last customer. Klaipėda’s most famous night spot is especially friendly and features high quality jazz every night of the week. Popular with students, businesspeople, locals and tourists alike. There’s beaver on the menu, for those who like their meat wild.

Friedricho Restaurant

Tiltų 26A, Tel. +370 463 01070, Open daily: 11:00 – 24:00. Good Mediterranean fare in a very charming alleyway featuring several restaurants and a café close to the central market. The Grilled eggplant and fresh vegetable salad (2.60€) makes a nice light snack or starter, while the Spanish white cheese pastry- orange cake served with orange salad and a few drops of Cointreau liqueur, cedar nuts and white chocolate (3€) is nowhere nearly as big as its name but is quite yummy.

Navalis Restaurant

H. Manto 23, Tel. +370 464 04200, Open daily: 12.00-24.00. An elegant choice for fish inside the Navalis Hotel. The Butter fried catfish served with grean pea, potato and onion porridge and white wine sauce (8.40€) accompanied by the house Azania Sauvignon Blanc (2€/ glass) is especially delicious.

Skandalas

Kanto 44, Tel. +370 464 11585, Open Sun – Wed: 12:00 – 01:00, Thu – Sat 12:00 – 02:00. The best choice in town for steaks. Also fish, pasta, fajitas, and chili and some tasty desserts such as a hot chocolate brownie served with ice cream – all at reasonable prices in a fun, American style atmosphere with almost Texas-style portions. Located on a quiet street a bit out of the Old Town. Live music on weekends.

Petit Marseille Wine Restaurant

Žvejų 4A, Tel. +370 46430472, Open daily: 11.00-24.00. For fans of the St Germain French restaurant in Vilnius, this is its larger Klaipeda cousin. Excellent wine list.

Memelis

Žvejų g. 4, Tel. +370 464 03040, Open Sun – Mon: 12:00-24:00, Tue – Thu: 12:00-02:00, Fri - Sat: 12:00-04:00. A good place to eat Lithuanian food and sample beer brewed on the premises (we especially liked the dark brew). Some tables even feature pour-your-own beer. Try a local beer snack or some hot smoked fish as an accompaniment. There are also beer cocktails – beer with mint syrup anyone?

Vivalavita

Naujojo Sodo 1 (top fl oor of the Klaipėda Hotel), Tel. +370 462 28800, Open daily: 12.00-03.00. Come for a cocktail and a terrific view on this high rooftop terrace.

Ju Binlou

Located inside Pramogų bankas on Theatre Square, Tel. +370 700 55555, Open Sun – Mon: 11:00-24:00, Tue – Thu: 11:00-02:00, Fri – Sat: 11:00 – 03:00. Don’t be put off by the garish interior – there’s good Chinese food here for night owls.